GIANT ARMADILLO

STATUS:
Endangered.

DESCRIPTION:

The necks and backs of giant armadillos are covered in flexible "armor" consisting of 14 to 17 moveable bands of horn and bone. Their heads are protected by a similar oval shield. Small, closely set plates of armor cover their tales. Giant armadillos are dark brown except for their heads, tails and the lower edges of their shells, which are nearly white. Giant armadillos have sparse hairs scattered between their plates. Their forefeet have large powerful claws. They are very agile and sometimes balance themselves on their hind legs and tails, with their forefeet off the ground.

SIZE:

The head and body of giant armadillos measure 30- to 40- inches long, and their tails reach about 20 inches. Armadillos can reach 130 pounds, but most weigh between 40 and 70 pounds.

LIFESPAN:

Giant armadillos can live 12 to 15 years.

RANGE:

Giant armadillos are found in South America, east of the Andes, from northwestern Venezuela to northeastern Argentina.

HABITAT:

Giant armadillos live in burrows near water in grassland, brushland, woodland and forest habitats.

FOOD:

The diet of giant armadillos consists of termites, insects, spiders, worms, larvae, snakes and carrion.

BEHAVIOR:

Giant armadillos are nocturnal creatures, meaning they are active at night and sleep during the day. They are powerful and quick diggers. Giant armadillos dig the burrows they travel through and live in. They also dig to find food and to escape predators.

OFFSPRING:

After a gestation period of four months, females give birth to one or two young. Newborns have leathery skin and weigh up to four pounds at birth.

THREATS:

Giant armadillos are threatened by overhunting and the loss of habitat because of human settlement and agricultural development.

Dolphin

Dolphins are part of the family of toothed whales that includes orcas and pilot whales. They are mammals and breathe through a blowhole on the top of their head. Dolphin coloration varies, but they are generally gray in color with darker backs than the rest of their bodies.

Size The Amazonian River dolphin is the smallest of the dolphin species at five feet in length. It weighs about 100 lbs. The largest dolphin species is the orca. Male orcas grow to about 18 feet in length and weigh about 19,000 pounds!

Lifespan Most dolphin species have a long lifespan. It is estimated that some individuals may have lived for more than 100 years.

Diet

Variety including fish, squid and crustaceans.

Population

It is difficult to estimate population numbers since there are many different species spanning a large geographic area.

Range

Most species live in tropical and temperate oceans throughout the world. Five species live in rivers.

Behavior

Dolphins are well known for their agility and playful behavior, making them a favorite of wildlife watchers. Many species will leap out of the water, spy-hop (rise vertically out of the water to view their surroundings) and follow ships, often synchronizing their movements with one another. Scientists believe that dolphins conserve energy by swimming alongside ships, a practice known as bow-riding.

Dolphins live in social groups of five to several hundred. They use echolocation to find prey and often hunt together by surrounding a school of fish, trapping them and taking turns swimming through the school and catching fish. Dolphins will also follow seabirds, other whales and fishing boats to feed opportunistically on the fish they scare up or discard.

Reproduction
Mating Season Throughout the year, though in some areas there is a peak in spring and fall.
Gestation 9-17 months depending on the species. When it is time to give birth, the female will distance herself from the pod, often going near the surface of the water.
Number of offspring Usually one calf; twins are rare.
As soon as the calf is born, the mother must quickly take it to the surface so it can take its first breath. The calf will nurse from 11 months to 2 years, and after it is done nursing it will still stay with its mother until it is between 3 and 8 years old.

Threats

Marine pollution, habitat degradation, harvesting, low frequency sonar, entanglement in fishing gear, boat traffic.

Legal Status/Protection

CITES* (All species of dolphin are protected under CITES: Appendix I: snubfin dolphin, Amazonian River dolphin, Indo-pacific humpbacked dolphin and the Atlantic humpbacked dolphin; Appendix II: all other dolphins), Endangered Species Act** (the Chinese River dolphin and the Indus River dolphin are listed as endangered under the Endangered Species Act), Marine Mammal Protection Act***

*Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, an international treaty with 172 member countries. Appendix I species cannot be traded commercially. Appendix II species can be traded commercially only if it does not harm their survival.

** The Endangered Species Act requires the US federal government to identify species threatened with extinction, identify habitat they need to survive, and help protect both. In doing so, the Act works to ensure the basic health of our natural ecosystems and protect the legacy of conservation we leave to our children and grandchildren.

*** The Marine Mammal Protection Act prohibits, with certain exceptions, the take of marine mammals in U.S. waters and by U.S. citizens on the high seas, and the importation of marine mammals and marine mammal products into the U.S.

Green Iguana

Physical Appearance: Full-grown green iguanas are usually between four and six feet, although they have been known to grow up to seven feet long. This includes the tail, however, which can make up about half the body length and, in addition to its green color, has black stripes. Green iguanas, not surprisingly, are green in color, but can be found in many different shade ranging from bright green, to a dull, grayish-green. Their skin is rough, with a set of pointy scales along the iguana's back. Green iguanas have long fingers and claws to help them climb and grasp.

iguana range map Geographic Range: The green iguana is found over a large geographic area, from Mexico to southern Brazil and Paraguay, as well as on the Caribbean Islands.

Adaptations: Besides the long fingers and claws mentioned above, green iguanas have many excellent interesting adaptations. Green iguanas have good senses of hearing and smell, and superb vision. Their long tail is also quite sharp, and is snapped in the air as a defense mechanism. The tail can also break off if caught by a predator, but grows back without permanant damage. Green iguana skin is very water resistant, and tough to avoid cuts and scratches. The coloring of the skin helps camoulflage the green iguana, which means that they blend in easily to their surroundings to remain undetected by predators. If they are etected however, and need to escape quickly, these iguanas can dive from trees into water, and swim well. Green iguanas are quite sturdy-- they can fall 40-50 feet to the ground without getting hurt! Male green iguanas have a special flap of skin called the dewlap. Male iguanas can raise their dewlap to appear bigger than they really are, either to intimidate predators, or to impressive females. Both male and female green iguanas can store fat under their jaws and in their necks for times when there is not much food available.

Habitat: Iguanas live in tropical rainforest areas, generally in lower altitudes in areas near water sources, such as rivers or streams. They spend most of their time high in the forest canopy, about 40-50 feet above the ground.

Behaviour: Iguanas are diurnal, meaning that they are awake during the day. They are also cold-blooded, which means they do not produce their own body heat. In other words, if it is cold, the iguana is cold too. So to stay warm, green iguanas bask in the sun, lying on warm rocks as they soak up the sun's heat.

iguana hatchlings

Reproductive Cycle and Family Habits: Green iguanas tend to live alone, but may be seen in groups occasionally in good sunny basking spots. Iguanas lay many eggs at a time (about 50), in holes inthe ground called burrows. They also dig pretend burrows to confuse any animals that may be looking for eggs to eat. After female iguanas lay the eggs, they leave them and do not return. When iguana babies hatch, they grow up without care from their parents. Green iguanas lay many eggs, but only 3-10 babies actually survive to be adults. It takes green iguana eggs about 8-10 weeks to hatch, then takes baby iguanas about 2 years to become mature adults.

Diet: Green iguanas are omnivorous, so they eat both plants and meat. They tend to eat mostly plants, though, especially leaves and fruits. Sometimes green iguanas (especially young ones) will eat eggs, insects, and small vertebrates.

Threats to Survival: Like many trpoical species, the green iguana is also threatened by habitat destruction. The green iguana is also a victim of the pet industry. Many people in the United States and elsewhere want a green iguana for a pet, so there is a big demand for their capture. Although many pet iguanas are now being raised on iguana farms, capture from the wild has lowered their numbers. In addition, some local populations of South America hunt the green iguana for food.

Conservation Efforts: Laws have been made to protect green iguanas from over-hunting and the pet-trade. Unfortunately, these laws are not enforced very well. Many people are trying to develop protected areas for the iguanas, and to educate local populations about the importance of conservation. Some of these educational programs help local populations find new ways of using the land, without permanantly destroying it. For example, for people who want to continue to eat the green iguana, programs are being developed to raise these animals for food, instead of hunting wild ones. Tony Garel, at the Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center, is woking on one such project to conserve the iguanas and educate local communities Tony has used captive breeding techniques to increase green iguana populations, and has released some of these iguanas into the wild.

Aquarium Lighting

Lighting is an important, and often overlooked, component of an aquarium. Proper illumination not only makes viewing the tank more enjoyable, but is also important for fish health. Many, especially first-time aquarium owners, are intimidated by the myriad of choices that are available for tanks, and either make incorrect choices or neglect it altogether.The white light we see is actually a combination of all the colors of the spectrum. In an aquarium setting, plants utilize the red/orange part, invertebrates flourish when illuminated with blue to violet, and vertebrates do the best with full-spectrum lighting. Since light does not pass easily through water, it is a good rule of thumb that deeper tanks require more intense light sources. For this reason, it is vitally important that you choose the proper type and wattage bulb for your tank.Fluorescent fixtures are by far the easiest way to light an aquarium. They are also available in a wide selection of colors, which makes them the most flexible in terms of displaying and highlighting aquarium residents. There are three basic types of fluorescent lighting, each with a specific function:Full Spectrum Lights are meant to mimic full daylight and provide food for growth to plants and coral. Intensity will vary with the application; freshwater plants need a full spectrum light, while reefs need intense full spectrum combined with actinic blue lights.Color Enhancing Lights are designed to display the colors of fish and plants. They have a yellow or pink hue to bring out the most vibrant colors in fish, plant or reef aquariums.Actinics are blue-toned and fulfill the requirements for coral growth by providing proper photosynthesis of symbiotic algae in corals.Not all fluorescent bulbs are the same, however. Be sure to purchase them at an aquarium shop and not the hardware store; the average bulb will not accentuate your tank's looks or health, and will even promote black algae growth. Compact Fluorescents are high-output lights that last longer and use less energy than regular fluorescents. They also require less space while still delivering proper lighting.Halides fixtures can be used for highlighting a particular part of the aquarium. Particular types of shallow water corals also thrive with this type of lighting. If this fixture is placed close to the water surface, it will need to have a UV light filter to reduce the harmful rays, as well to protect from splashes. Choosing the perfect light fixtures for your aquarium can be done by keeping in mind what your aquarium requires while allowing for your personal taste. By doing so, you will have a healthy and visually pleasing investment.

Housing Your Hamster

No doubt when your purchase your hamster he/she will need a cage. There are many types of cages that will provide your hamster with a good habitat. There are countless attachments sold to make your hamster's cage more interesting including: plastic tubing, hamster wheels, separate tiers, ladders, bridges, sleeping areas, ceramic houses and shoes containing holes, mazes, and lots more! But the most important part is the cage to put your hamster in here are some possiblities...

HOUSING/CAGE STYLES

Aquariums

Both glass and plastic aquariums can be used as hamster housing. An advantage that plastic has over glass is that it is lighter and therefore easier to clean, but plastic scratches more easily.
Both glass and plastic aquariums have the advantage of being draft-proof; therefore, shavings and bedding remain inside (and not all over your floor!). However, they are cumbersome to clean. In addition, unless you add a specially designed top that takes add-ons such as standard clip-on water bottles and/or food dishes they are not a good choice. Aquariums are not suitable for a clip-on exercise wheel, although a freestanding wheel can be substituted. You must keep in mind that a freestanding wheel will take up more space in your hamster's home than a clip-on wheel. Wheels are a very important part of your hamsters cage as they provide an outlet for the hamsters nearly endless energy.

If you decide to use an aquarium as your hamster's home, you must cover it securely so that he cannot escape. Ventilated plastic tops designed specifically for these purposes are available. You should ALWAYS use them for your "hamster aquarium". The ventilated plastic tops often have modifications to take add-ons such as hanging water bottles. Don't use covers with large holes or easy to open lids as your hamster may escape; screen lids are not a smart choice ether as your hamster may chew a hole in the lid and get away! Remember that hamsters originate from a desert environment and yours does not like damp conditions so avoide solid lids as these do not all proper venilation and will cause condensation in the aquarium.

Most aquariums range in $5-$100 in price.

Hamster Cages

Traditionally hamsters were kept in cages and a cage is always the best choice for your hamster. Traditional hamster cages are normaly wire, square, structures with a metal or plastic litter pan, with a wire door that hooks over a ridged strip of metal. A variety of wire cages are sold today and these cages are the best thing you can put your hamster in. They are normally about 1-3 feet tall and many have two or more stories connected with ramps or ladders, giving your hamster a few dimensions to explore. They have a metal or plastic bottom that should be filled with cage litter and a wheel, water bottle, and many other fun toys are easy to attach to the metal wire sides. The best ones have doors on both the top and side of your cage making it easier to remove your hamster.

Cages range from $10-$300 in price.

Tube Cages

Some cages are designed as compartments connected via a series of plastic tubes, but you should avoid the ones with round components because hamsters may become disoriented without corners. Tube cages can be more difficult to clean than the traditional hamster cage. You must also ensure that the connecting tunnels will be large enough for your hamster to pass through when he is grown to full size.

Tube Cages range from $15-$500 in price.

Hamster Habitats

These speciality cages usally have a theme (desert, space, theme park etc). Most are designed to appeal to children since they are most often large bulky and brightly colored. Most are also decorated with cartoon hamsters, there is even a version featuring Hamtaro! They are large clear (or tinted) plastic filled with a tubing maze that offten extends outside the cage and they usally have all of the toys and food bowls/water bottles attached. Many also contain a "sky box" a tube that comes out of the cage conected to a clear plastic box. They are offten expensive and hard to clean.

They range in price from $20-$1000!

SIZE OF HOUSING

Your hamsters cage should be large enough that he/she can run without bumping into a wall or decoration. He/she should have at least 2 feet of clear running space. If your container has attached tubing, wheels, etc then make sure your hamster will fit in them when they are full grown!

SAFETY

The door must close firmly or your hamster may be able to push it open and escape. The doors should open outward rather than inward. If you use an aquarium with a plastic top, make sure that the top fits snugly over the sides and that the hamster cannot squeeze out. Your hamster's cage must not have sharp edges or broken wires that may cause injury.

If the cage is plastic, make sure there are no exposed edges through which the hamster could chew and make an escape.

All cages should be pet proof to ensure that if you have any animals with free run of the house they are not able to gain access to your hamster within it's cage.

Living with a House Rabbit

Perhaps you've just adopted your first rabbit, or maybe you already have a rabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The House Rabbit Society, a national nonprofit organization, recommends that you keep your rabbit in the house rather than outdoors. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.

The benefits of spay and neuter

Although most rabbits will use a litterbox, hormones may cause unneutered males and unspayed females to "mark territory." Spaying or neutering your rabbit improves litterbox habits, lessens chewing behavior, decreases territorial aggression, and gives your rabbit a happier, longer life. Have your rabbit neutered between ages 3 1/2 to 6 months, depending on sexual maturity, by an experienced rabbit veterinarian.

For rabbits more than 2 years old, get a veterinary checkup first.

Housetraining

Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it's best for most--and necessary for some--to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litterbox in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a "bathroom." As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litterboxes in corners of the running area outside the cage.

Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment.

Bunny-proofing

Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it.

Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny-proofing than mature rabbits.

House rabbits and other animals

House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog's playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits.

Major Health Problems

Intestinal blockages: Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they get furballs just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms.

If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian.

Prevention: keep bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed); provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet; give petroleum laxatives during a heavy molt or if synthetics have been swallowed.

Bacterial balance: A rabbit's digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the "good" bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit.

Prevention: Keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. (A list is available from your local poison center.)

Infectious bacteria: Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a "cold," take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria.

It's up to you

Find an experienced rabbit doctor before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice.

Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings.

Danger Signs

Don't waste valuable time Call your veterinarian immediately if you see:

Diarrhea with listlessness

Sudden loss of appetite with bloat and abdominal gurgling

Loss of appetite with labored breathing

Loss of appetite with runny nose

Head tilt

Incontinence (urine-soaked rear legs)

Abscesses, lumps or swellings anywhere

Any sudden behavior change

Have List

HOUSING

Roomy cage

Resting board

Litterbox (in cage)

Pellet bowl or feeder

Water bottle/crock

Toys (chew & toss)

Pet carrier

RUNNING SPACE

Indoors:

Bunny-proofed room(s)

Litterbox

Toys (chew & dig)

Outdoors:

Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor)

CONSUMABLES

Limited pellets daily

Fresh water

Hay /straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation)

Fresh salad veggies/fruit (add gradually)

Barley/oats (verysmall amounts)

Wood (for chewing recreation)

Multiple enzymes (digestive aid)

Petroleum laxative (when needed for passing hair)

GROOMING

Flea comb

Brush

Flea products safe for rabbits (no Frontline!)

Toenail clippers

SUPPLIES

Dust-free litter (not wood shavings)

Pooper scooper

Whiskbroom/dustpan

White vinegar (for urine accidents)

Hand vacuum

Chlorine bleach (for disinfecting)

Newspapers

Clem & Oscar

Here are Clem (aka Critter) and his brother Oscar. My wife and I rescued them from our garage, along with their two brothers, after their mother failed to take care of them. We have Clem now, and the others are in good homes. Clem is impetuous, sociable, demandingly persistent and loves to cuddle. Our five other cats have finally accepted him as one of the group!

Fosse the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Fosse's mom says: Fosse is a very friendly Cavalier King Charles puppy. He loves being around people, playing with his toys, running in the park and licking people's ears. He is extremely intelligent and learns new tricks very fast. He already sits, lies down and goes to bed on command. He's working on his "roll over" trick which he hasn't quite mastered yet! He is the perfect and most loving dog.

Sea Otter

The largest member of the weasel family, the sea otter is also the 2nd smallest marine mammal. Sea otters have the thickest fur in the animal kingdom, ranging from 250,000 to a million hairs per square inch, which insulates them and maintains warmth. Unlike other marine mammals, the sea otter does not have a layer of blubber (fat) to help keep it warm.

Length California sea otters: 4 feet; northern sea otters: slightly larger
Weight 45 lbs (females); 65 lbs (males). Northern sea otters can reach up to 100 pounds.
Lifespan 10-15 years (males); 15-20 years (females)

Diet

Sea urchins, abalone, mussels, clams, crabs, snails and about 40 other marine species. Sea otters eat approximately 25% of their weight in food each day.

Population

Historically, sea otters numbered between several hundred thousand to more than a million. But due to the fur trade, worldwide numbers plummeted down to a total of 1000-2000 in the early 1900s. As of 2006, the three-year running average is approximately 2,750 southern sea otters off the coast of California. There are between 64,600 and 77,300 northern sea otters residing in Alaska, Canada and Washington. There are approximately 15,000 in Russia and less than a dozen in Japan.

Range

The sea otter’s historic range stretched from Japan, along the coast of Siberia and the Aleutian Chain and down the Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon and California coast to Baja California. Currently sea otters can be found in California, Washington, Alaska, Canada, Russia, and Japan.

Behavior

Sea otters live in shallow coastal waters off the northern Pacific. They are the only mammals other than primates, birds and a few other animals known to use tools. They use small rocks or other objects to pry shellfish from rocks and to hammer them open.

Sea otters spend much of their lives in the water and can dive up to 330 feet when foraging for food. They sometimes rest in coastal kelp forests, often draping the kelp over their bodies to keep from drifting away.

Reproduction
Mating Season throughout the year
Gestation 6-8 months
Litter Size Generally one pup, but sea otters can give birth to twins.

Threats

Oil spills, habitat loss and degradation, food limitation, disease, fishing gear entrapment and conflict with shellfish fisheries.